Inferno Fury Racing Clutches
INSTALLATION and MAINTENANCE Instructions
The Inferno racing clutch is a highly tunable centrifugal drum clutch. The clutch can be built in several different configurations giving the racer the ultimate control possible over their unique racing situation. Adjustability comes from the ability to change the engagement speed by changing the springs. With 4 shoes, racers are able to mix and match spring configuration make possibilities, keeping in mind that clutch balance is important. For example you can’t set a heavy spring opposite from a light spring. BALANCE IS KEY!
This clutch is a two (2) piece mechanism.
There is a potential that if the clutch is not assembled or installed properly
that serious injury can occur. It is VERY important that you follow all the
directions for proper clutch installation.
See the tuning guide prior to
assembly. Different configurations are available, and will drastically change
clutch characteristics. Get an idea from the tuning guide on what configuration
you might want to start with.
Shoe Installation:
- Shoes are to be placed on the driving lugs of the hub. See Illustration for clarification. Also see the tuning guide to determine the best configuration.
- Shoes should fit loosely on these lugs, and be able to slide freely on them.
- Use Internal Snap Ring Pliers to spread the springs apart for easy installation. See the tuning guide to determine the best set of springs.
- DO NOT stretch the springs any further than necessary for installation.
- If mismatching springs make sure similar springs are opposite one another in the assembly. Keeping balance in mind.
- For best performance oil the bushing before every run.
- Wipe off excess oil before installing into the sprocket.
- Slide sprocket and drum onto the engine shaft, so that the sprocket faces the engine. Note: (The drum and sprocket will be loose on the shaft.)
- Slide the bushing that was properly lubricated on the engine shaft. You will have to line up the key in the bushing with the keyway on the engine. The bushing should slide through the sprocket.
- Slide on the hub/shoe/spring assembly from the previous steps. Make sure that the letters on the hub are out away from the engine. The part of the hub that protrudes from the back should be outside of the drum. (Reference picture). The key in the hub will need to be lined up with the keyway on the crankshaft to get the clutch to slide on completely. The shoes should be fully enclosed under the drum.
- Measure the distance from the end of the clutch to the end of the crankshaft. The clutch should be shorter than the crankshaft (If it is not special instructions need to be followed). The distance from the end of the crankshaft, to the end of the hub should be between .020, and .030. If it is not, then remove the clutch, and place appropriate spacers (washers) on the engine shaft, and re-install the clutch following the same instructions.
- Recheck your measurement for end play. You do not want to have the clutch longer than the shaft, nor do you want too much room for it to move. This step is critical, and needs to be confirmed.
- Install the guard so that the letters on the guard remain out toward the user, and must be readable after installation.
- The guard is to tighten against the end of the crankshaft, not clamping on the clutch hub. There should be .020-.030 clearance from the inside of the guard to the hub of the clutch. DO NOT CLAMP THE GUARD TIGHT TO THE HUB.
- If the clutch is to be installed with the sprocket away from the motor, or outboard mounted, then the guard is not needed.
- DO NOT OPERATE WITH THE SPROCKET INBOARD WITHOUT THIS GUARD.
- Retain the clutch using a bolt and washer. The washer should tighten to the guard, and the guard to the shaft, NOT THE CLUTCH! DO NOT USE setscrews to retain this clutch onto the shaft.
- Verify there is a .020-.030” movement by sliding the clutch drum tight to the guard, and measuring the gap form the front edge of the bushing to the shoulder on the crankshaft.
